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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Onan Generator Oil Filter Crossthreaded
Thanks all for responding. I’m the only one that has ever changed the oil. And while I’m not a certified mechanic, I’m competent with basic repair. I also have always hand tightened as recommended, and I struggle to open a jar of spaghetti sauce, so I’m certain I couldn’t have over tightened it.
This is the model for those that asked:
Cummins Onan 5.5 HGJAB-1038 RV QG 5500 gasoline powered generator.
My next plan of action is to reach out to Onan directly as I’m in warranty as per years/hours.
It just seems like poor craftsmanship that a filter can cross thread the plate. ?????
Thanks for filling in the additional information. Just because you didn't over tighten the filter, doesn't mean it wasn't cross threaded. (I've done it!) On the Onan 5.5, granted, it's difficult to cross thread the oil filter, and, it is possible to get knackered threads out of an OEM box, (returned items, factory FU's, etc.) however, IME, . . . . unlikely. That said, I'm sure there's a way to economically get beyond this, but, . . . . just not in this format. Good luck to you.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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11/13/23 04:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter draw from battery for residential fridge
"Does anyone know how many amps are drawn by an inverter to convert to AC for a residential fridge. Can anyone tell me how to figure it out.
Look for the Manufacturers ID plate attached somewhere to your refrigerator. It will state the load in amps @ 120 volts. Convert that to watts. Watts = Volts X Amps. For example, if your refrigerator draws 6 amps @ 120 volts, the watts equal 6 X 120 = 720 watts actual load. Now add the power draw of your inverter (in addition to the energy required to run the frig) to convert from 12 to 120 volts. If you have a 1000 watt inverter, figure about 5%. So .05 X 1000 = 50 watts. Now add that to the actual load. 720 + 50 = 770 watts. Now convert to battery amps @ 12 volts. 770 / 12 = 64 amps. That's a lot, but it is not continuous. It's based on the duty cycle of your refrigerator.
64 amps @ 12 volts far exceeds what you could reasonably/reliably expect to run through a single pin on a standard 7 pin truck/trailer connector. Your residential refrigerator may draw less than 6 amps (@ 120 volts), but, if it's a high end model with all the bells and whistles, it could be considerably more.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/30/23 08:19am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: full wall slideout issue - maybe
To get an idea of how much frames actually bend when stressed, go to any shop with a car up on a lift and being supported by the frame. (all wheels hanging off the ground) Open the drivers door and then try to close it. Chances are it won't feel/sound right. It may not even open/close with the wheels in the air.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/27/23 08:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Onan Generator Oil Filter Crossthreaded
I think your service department screwed up royally and are trying to make you pay for it. If the previous servicer had cross threaded the filter boss, your filter would have probably leaked.
Yes! And, IME, it would have probably leaked from the moment oil pressure/volume was initially supplied by the oil pump.
The OP doesn't state which model (age/current hours/size/fuel type) of Onan generator they are speaking about which would be helpful in getting more useful information in this format.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/27/23 08:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Installing an oven into a former rental rv
Hi All,
I am considering a former rental RV. I have found that the El Monte RV models are out of my price range. The Cruise America models will work. However, none of them have an oven. I am guessing the space for the microwave is too small to install a convection oven.
So, here's the question: have any of you installed a regular oven in the space below the cooktop. No oven is nearly a deal breaker for me.
Thanks for your responses.
Million dollar question: What do you consider to be a "regular oven."
Generally, the Magic Chef style cook top/oven combos are propane powered. Does the RV you are considering have a propane tank, or, is it all electric? (Cruise America saves money that way) If it's all electric, most likely, it doesn't have a range top vent, and plumbing for propane where you'll need it. Range top/oven vents are required if you cook with propane. (carbon monoxide/dioxide source) With an electric oven, you may need to upgrade your electrical system. Either way, based on what you want to do, you should be clear on what's required before you buy.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/23/23 10:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Take apart signal lite switch? - Hi beam on with right turn
Truck in sig, 2007 GMC Classic:
I have the most annoying issue with my signal light switch.
Question is for you all, has anyone tried disassembling the signal light switch? Are there screws to take it apart? I like fixing stuff instead of replacing it.
I know I can buy a new one for a small fortune and just replace it, but I'd like to try fixing it.
I'll likely wind up buying a new one, I know, but just thought I'd ask.
I've done the same thing for years with good results, but with German cars which generally have Bosch, Siemens, Hella, etc. electricals so I haven't done much (anything) with AC/Delco headlight switches. AC/Delco programmer motors, . . . yes. All you can do is remove the switch and see how it was manufactured/assembled. Usually it will be with snaps, rivets, tabs, screws, glue, heat bonding, or any combination. If your problem is with dirty/worn internal contacts, often it is repairable with cleaning/resurfacing, then reassembly. If the problem is with ratcheting assemblies/gears/cams/bushings, etc., often they break or just wear out. Finding/fabricating replacement parts can be difficult and generally not worth your time. If air bag equipped, use caution. (for obvious reasons)
Good luck with it. Be aware: Many new electrical parts that show evidence of previous installation are not returnable for credit. IMO, you're definitely about to learn something. (that's a good thing)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/23/23 01:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 12v wire thickness
I have a 2kw inverter and will be getting a 100a converter for my 2 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Currently I'm just using whatever ga wires came with everything (a bix of 4/6/8).
I am planning on changing everything to connect through a BUS BAR and upgrade all the cabling to heavier ga. I want to future proof it to handle a 3kw inverter.
It's been REALLY confusing figuring out what wires I need. ALMOST everything online "(forums and articles) tell me I need something like a 4/0 guage, which is HUGE. That makes sense considering 3kw can reach 200-250 amps. Except the fact that no OEM items come with something nearly this thick.
I think the reason all these recommendations may be wrong is they do not account for length of wire being very short in our use cases.
It looks like considering everything is definitely under 4ft, I won't need anything over 4ga. On the other hand, I'm pretty sure that ampacity is over max 4ga rating when you look it up.
Can anyone make any recommendations based on actual knowledge and not just heresay or making best guesses?
Look at the cables/connectors from your chassis battery to the starter motor. What size/material/insulation are they? It's quite normal for your starter motor to draw well over 250 amps @ 12 volts (nominal) to start the vehicle. Granted, it's usually for only a short time, but when you need it, . . . . you need it. It's not just the size of the wire, the connectors are important too, since over time, often (not always) they initiate the failure of the wire.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/18/23 08:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Damaged hydraulic leveler hoses
I've noticed that the hoses for my hydraulic leveling system are losing the outer rubber protective later. It's just cracking and falling away. Beneath I can see a woven layer that I imagine is what contains the pressure of the inner hose. The woven layer looks pristine.
Do I need to immediately worry about replacing these hoses or can I monitor them for deterioration of the now exposed pressure layer?
Thanks!
The most important layer of your hydraulic hoses is on the inside where the fluid is. Which you CAN'T see. Nor can anyone else with the hoses in place. That said, often (not always) what's happening on the outside, reflects what's happening on the inside. Your flexible hoses are at least 17 years old. IMO, the hydraulic system for your levelers isn't critical, like it is for brakes/steering/cooling/lubrication. It's more of a convenience that, in a pinch, you can make do without. If it were mine, I wouldn't worry about it, BUT, I would source/price replacement parts, and be clear on the availability. If you plan on replacing the hose(s) yourself and the prompt availability is questionable, I would order the hoses now and keep them (along with extra hydraulic fluid) on hand for the impending moment. All hoses fail, . . . eventually. At the first sign of fluid seepage, bulging, or, lack of hydraulic pressure, IMO, the best time for hose replacement has arrived and passed. Your decision. IMO, it's more a matter of how much inconvenience you're willing to tolerate.
Chum lee
P.S.: When I say, "I wouldn't worry about it." That doesn't mean I wouldn't take action, . . . . . now. My mother (RIP) used to worry incessantly, doing nothing, as she watched her world fall apart. I'm not suggesting you do that!
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Chum lee
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10/11/23 12:46am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone with a 34 J Motorhome
Generally on front engine Class A gassers, the driveshaft is in the way between the front and rear axles and the fuel tank is in the way behind the rear axle. So, . . . . you usually won't find full height/width pass through basement storage.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/08/23 07:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do it yourself Oil Change on Newmar class a gas motorhome
Depending on who installed the last oil filter and how long it's been there, you may need a special oil filter wrench to remove the existing filter. In the future, if you use the correct OEM oil filter (Motorcraft FL-820S) and install it correctly (coat gasket with oil and hand tighten only) you won't ever need the oil filter wrench again.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/07/23 05:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2009 Tiffin Phaeton Engine Rebuild
IMO, there's so little information given here that it's impossible to even guess what happened.
Some general information. In a water cooled engine with a pressurized cooling system running the proper 50/50% water/coolant mix, 230F is not even boiling over. Yes, it's on the high side of normal, but a turbocharged properly maintained heavy duty diesel truck engine should be able to take that without spitting out parts. (if that happened)
So, . . . . what really happened? Was this engine properly maintained, or was it run low on oil/coolant, modified, or, . . . something else?
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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10/02/23 07:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Onan 5500 Cover
Right now: go to EBAY and search for "Cummins Onan RV Generator access door - used - 5500" Asking price: $110.00 + $20.00 shipping, or make offer. One available. Good condition.
P.S.: Don't run the generator under load without the access door installed. It may overheat and be damaged.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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09/29/23 08:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wires to battery corroded through
there's no way to tell how much life is left on these batteries, right? I'd hate to be somewhere and have them die on me. We don't live in a hot climate but the first few years I didn't care for them as well and they dried once and completely discharged once or twice.
Not so fast. There are many ways to tell how much life is left in your flooded cell deep cycle batteries.
1. At six years of age, you are on borrowed time.
2. The fact that you must add water monthly, and when charging, also means you are on borrowed time. Do you use distilled water?
3. The fact that they are off gassing (when charging) enough to damage the cables also tells you that you are on borrowed time.
4. Fully charge and equalize the batteries. Let them sit disconnected for several weeks. How well do they hold a charge?
5. Are the cases bulging at the exterior on the sides?
6. Does the specific gravity vary (as the batteries charge/discharge) relatively consistently, or, do one or more cells (usually the end cells) vary substantially from the others?
7. Does the fully charged voltage remain at/above about 12.8 volts for at least a day?
The above are all simple checks you can do today to decrease the chances that you are "surprised" on your next excursion.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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09/23/23 08:15am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Moth Balls Melt Solo Cup
Put the moth balls in a small empty glass jar with the threaded lid removed.
Depending on where (which state) you buy the moth balls, they could be made of naphthalene or para-dichlorobenzene. Both chemicals can effect plastics differently but won't damage glass.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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09/17/23 07:59pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Does AC Softstart void Warranty?
NEVER had this type question in 44 years. BUT, I DO modify some of my equipment under warranty. IF I would ever have a problem, I would remove that added part before taking it in for warranty service. Never had a problem under warranty for those times I added a part. I had a start capacitor fail on my Home AC system. I replaced it, to get cooling until the Company could come out and diagnose and fix. Before they showed up, I removed MY new capacitor and installed the defective one. Did NOT tell them what I did, just like you, did not want to get in a problem with ME touching the system under warranty. Doug
I'm an engineer myself and probably older than you. Professionally, I guarantee what I do. I don't guarantee/warranty what you do to it. (modifications) As far as I'm concerned, now, it's your design, and that's on you. Please don't call me back complaining that your design doesn't work. It's that simple.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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08/26/23 04:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Scotty I need more power!
Chum lee, its the sarcastic attitude that is uncalled for. But you're not alone, there are a few others on rv.net to keep you company.
The OP stated he wanted more amp hours but had space issues. That makes him well aware of what he has to work with. People either should help him or move on to the next thread.
It's not sarcasm, that's just your take on my comments. It's just reality. I deal with reality, . . . . EVERYDAY! Call it what you want.
I don't have unsolvable battery or electrical issues with my motor home, nor do I ask questions about it if I do, . . . here. I figure them out myself. Why do I continue to get demonized, .. . here, for "having the answer rather than the question?" This is why this website is what it is.
Chum lee.
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Chum lee
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08/12/23 04:13pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Scotty I need more power!
That's a bit uncalled for, Chum lee.
So, . . . IYO, speaking the TRUTH is politically incorrect here? If I might ask, . . . what is your solution? (for the OP's, IMO, impossible problem) Darn, . . . another politically incorrect question.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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08/12/23 01:48pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Scotty I need more power!
After a recent extended trip without hookups, and a lot of research, I decided I need more battery capacity! But I have no room for another battery. If I could get half that I’d pull the trigger and get the bigger battery.
IMO, you are beating a dead horse. Eventually, you will realize (given your specific application) that you can't run your RV off batteries alone, . . . . you need some other form of power. With the space you have, current battery technology simply can't store enough electricity to meet your current needs. It doesn't matter if you decide to use solar, wind, a gas generator, or just plug into a pedestal somewhere, batteries alone just aren't going to get the job done.
Chum lee
And another answer I don’t quite understand. Didn’t say I didn’t have a generator. I just want more AH out of my battery bank. And yes, more AH will satisfy my needs.
Yes, I read your post. Did you read mine? Especially the part about "WITH THE SPACE YOU HAVE" I was referring to the space for your battery bank. You could try a nuclear reactor or a hydrogen fuel cell if you want. NASA, SpaceX, and the U.S. Navy use those all the time, but, they may be well out of your price range.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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08/11/23 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Scotty I need more power!
After a recent extended trip without hookups, and a lot of research, I decided I need more battery capacity! But I have no room for another battery. If I could get half that I’d pull the trigger and get the bigger battery.
IMO, you are beating a dead horse. Eventually, you will realize (given your specific application) that you can't run your RV off batteries alone, . . . . you need some other form of power. With the space you have, current battery technology simply can't store enough electricity to meet your current needs. It doesn't matter if you decide to use solar, wind, a gas generator, or just plug into a pedestal somewhere, batteries alone just aren't going to get the job done.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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08/11/23 01:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Thinking of buying a Class A and seeking advice
If you are considering a Class A with slides, make sure you are aware of what the floor plan looks like "inside" with the slides "retracted." Some floor plans are usable, some are not. When you are in travel mode, many popular rest areas are too tight to safely fully extend your slides. (without the danger of another oversize vehicle damaging them) IMO, it's good to KNOW that, now, before you sign on the dotted line.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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08/07/23 06:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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